South to Marathon

Monday, February 21^st (Presidents Day)

Pumpout, Water and sewing in the morning. We left late as we were going to an an anchorage for the night and it was only a short distance.

About halfway down the Caloosahatchie River we passed Sassy II and Mint Julep – friends from the loop and Burt Store – that were headed up the river to cross Florida on the Okeechobee Waterway and go to the Bahamas. Maybe we will see them on the East Coast ,when we head north and they are headed back to Burnt Store.

Once we entered the Gulf we saw a sea turtle as well as our dolphin friends. Turns out our Dolphin Warning Device (AKA Annie) only works when they are alongside swimming with us. If they are crossing our path she does not pay any attention to them.

When we got to Ft. Myers Beach we decided to take a mooring ball. We thought the anchorage was a bit exposed and far from town. Little did we know that the mooring would be a mile from the dinghy dock.

We took the dinghy in to the dock and took Annie for a walk through town.

Ft. Myers Beach is definitely a beach town. The streets are lined with bars and T shirt shops. It is Spring Break so the people on the street are quite varied, from girls in string bikinis and guys in baggy shorts to men and women with pot bellies and varicose veins. And not much in between, very few children. Actually quite a few nice bodies to look at thanks to spring break.

Had a really beautiful calm night.

Tuesday, February 22^nd

Foggy and calm this morning. The fog lifted at ten and we got underway to Naples. Out on the Gulf there was lots of fog left. Visibility was under 1/4 mile, however by 11 it became just hazy with a 5 mile visibility.

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I put the fishing rod out but nothing seems to like my offerings yet.

I spoke too soon . I almost caught a fishing boat. They passed close by my stern, cut my line and kept on going. If there is any justice it snarled in their prop and shut them down.

The entrance waterway to Naples is lined with Mega Houses. To call them “starter castles” would be belittling them. Carole counted one house with 32 columns that we could see.

The city marina where we stayed is also home to many charter fishing boats. When we arrived they were busy cleaning the day,s catch with a large audience of Pelicans watching. One of them was bold enough to stand on the dock surrounded by a crowd of people.

Had a good dinner at the Boat House Restaurant and hit the sack.

Wednesday, February 23^rd

Foggy again. We did get started at 9:45. We have along trip today.

It turned in to a beautiful day on the Gulf. Calm sea and a cool breeze. We are headed to the Everglades tonight, leaving the clear blue gulf water for the muddy mangrove swamp.

From Rags

To Riches

 

As we headed south it was leaving the Condo hell of Naples and Marco Island to the jungle. One moment you see a shore lined with concrete buildings and then you can not see anything but low growing mangroves. I kind of think of it as “Rags to Riches”. That is “Glad Rags” to Natural Riches.

A short way up the Barron River in the Everglades National Park is the town of Everglades City. This is the Florida of the 50's. Small single story houses on large lots. Wide streets with no sidewalks.

Rod and Gun Club

Bank of the Everglades circa 1928

We tied up at the Rod and Gun Club. The building dates to 1884, but it actually was bought and made famous on the 1920's. At that time Mr. Barron also built the Tamiami Trail across Florida so his clients could get to the Rod and Gun Club. The bars and game room were all in polished dark woods (it was really dark inside the rooms so no pictures). One room had a pool table with leather web pockets. There was a dining room but we all were eating on the screened in Veranda. A very pleasant trip in to the past (except for the bill, but that's O.K.).

Thursday, February 24^th

We were awakened at 4, 4:30 and 5 by Stone Crabbers heading out. They were not only noisy, but their wake rocked the boat pretty hard.

Woke up to fog again this morning, but since we did not plan to leave until afternoon it was no problem.

We walked to the National Park Visitor Center and were able to squeeze in on a boat tour of the mangroves. They were sold out, but when there were two no shows we were right there to snap up the seats. It was an interesting trip through the mangrove islands with all the usual Herons, Egrets and Osprey. Part of the trip was through a mangrove tunnel. The highlight for us was a dophin hunting in 2-3 feet of water. It was circling and would toss the fish up in to the air. One toss threw a foot long fish about 10 feet high. We stopped to watch it for quite a while.

Mangrove Tunnel

When we got back from the park, about a mile walk each way, Annie cleared the dock of pelicans much to the amusement of the onlookers. A number of Marinas up north were ready to hire her to keep the geese off their docks. Down here Pelicans are the problem. An airboat came by this afternoon with two pelicans sitting on the bow looking at the passengers and waiting for handouts.

We left Everglades City about 3 and traveled 5 miles downstream to a spot in the mangroves close to the gulf.

Very peaceful. We want to get an early start tomorrow as we have 40 miles to go to the next anchorage.

Friday, February 25^th

Clear and breezy the morning, no fog.

I have been fighting a cold for the last few days and Carole has pulled a muscle, so the walking wounded take off for the Little Shark River.

There is about a 1 to 2' chop on the Gulf today. A few dolphins alongside as we entered the Gulf and I saw a ray leap out of a wave. It was about 3' across. The wind picked up a bit, but the seas remained fairly calm. They maybe got to 1 - 1/2'.

We entered the Little Shark River and anchored in the mangroves again.

There is really no, I mean zero phone service here. The Verizon Card could not find even a trace of a signal. However I did get several strikes while fishing but was not able to hook anything. I did see a sea turtle swimming downriver against the tide. It surfaced several times, but dove before I could grab the camera.

Annie's walk consisted of pushing the front of the dinghy on to a 2' x 2' muddy opening in the mangroves. She jumped on to the mud, peed and jumped back in the dingy. I think she must have heard that there were crocodiles here. I slipped on the mud getting out and Annie refused to get out of the dinghy to finish her “toilet” unless I joined her on the mud. Add to that the insects trying to eat me and it was not a pleasant experience.

Sunset in Little Shark River

At sundown the wind died and then the bugs really came out in force. The No See-um screens and electronic flyswatter really earned their keep. I did have to go out to grill dinner, but a jacket with the collar pulled over my neck and a hood made it tolerable.

Saturday, February 26^th

Mangroves in the morning

We planned on an 8 o'clock start.After taking Annie to shore for a quick trip to the mud, I found the bugs so bad that we were underway at 7:30. Breakfast and coffee waited until we were clear of the bugs.

The crossing to Marathon in the Keys was easy. We had a fun dolphin show along the way. A pod of 8-10 were leaping and diving for a while off our beam.

We arrived at the Marina by 2:30 and settled in. We met our neighbors and were in time for the grand opening of the bar. It was officially the night before, but the beer was still a $1.00. The marina and bar are still coming off a bankruptcy sale so all of the licenses are not in place. Alcohol yes, food, no – have to keep our priorities straight.

We went to Banana Resort for Dinner with Jay and Joan from Windsong.

We are in Marathon for a month.