Lake Michigan

Perhaps it should be called Lake Michigos! (sorry as I remember it, that is Yiddish,  for “Crazy” or maybe it should be Mishouganah - whatever)

People may complain about the Delaware Bay, but it is only one day. Lake Michigan was 22 days, of which we only traveled 9 and 6 of those were out of frustration. Only three of the 9 days had seas under 2 ft. Every other day we traveled we saw some 3 ft. and occasionally 4 and 5 ft. The towns were nice and we wanted to visit more than we did, but with the lake being so rough we traveled whenever we could. So we spent more time than we wanted in some places and did not get to see others.

Mackinac Straights Bridge

Friday, August 20^th

Headed out early the morning through the Straights of Mackinac. We were headed for Petosky. The weather is not ideal but should be O.K. The wind and seas were behind going through the straights, but as we turned south through Grays Reef we felt as if we were in a washing machine. 4-6 ft. waves coming from every direction. Our speed dropped to 4 ½ mph on occasion. I decided to burn some fuel and punched to get through. About 2 hrs. later we headed close to shore to get out of the waves ( the wind was coming from the shore so the waves were smaller there). Near shore the waves dropped to two feet and it was a better ride in to Petosky.

The towns are getting larger as we move south. Petosky feels like a suburban town. There is a waterfront festival this weekend. The Rotary had a pretty nice midway and kids games. We were smelling Diesel in the cabin when we arrived, so I spent the rest of the day trying to find a leak. It only smelled with the engine running and I found diesel in the oil pan. Not finding any real leak I tightened the injector fittings.

Saturday, August 21^st

A short 2 ½ hr. trip to Charlevoix today, since the lake was not going to be calm and Charlevoix only a little way out from the bay near Petosky. The diesel leak seems to be gone..

Charlevoix is another nice port. The Michigan Marinas have been first class so far. There was a sidewalk sale going on and the town was quite crowded. It also felt like a an east coast suburban town. The Marina is situated in a park with a “ground level” fountain. That is no pool at the base just an extension of the sidewalk with drains in it. The kids (of all ages) can play in it. It had various water jets coming out of the ground and playing up and down, sometimes on sometimes off. I watched on little boy go up to a jet that was not shooting water at the time and put his foot over it. When nothing happened he looked down and the five smaller jets around the big one shot him straight in the face. Hardly fazed him.

One of the "Mushroom Houses" at Charlevoix

Sunday, August 22^nd

We missed the 8 o'clock bridge opening by a minute and since the next one was in ½ hr. we cruised out through a narrow cut in to Lake Charlevoix. Carole decided to have breakfast and came up saying she smelled diesel. I went to check and found diesel spraying out of a crack in one of the injector lines. We were lucky we missed the bridge. We went directly back to the dock. A quick conference with Leigh my diesel guru and some online research found a nearby auto parts store open on Sunday, where I hoped to find a brake line repair kit. I walked about a mile to the store and bought $2.00 worth of parts. We tried to find the leak and repair it in the store, but even with air pressure we could not locate it. They loaned me the flaring tool to take with me and another customer gave me a ride back to the boat. I had to reinstall the line and run the engine to pinpoint the leak. I then cut the line at the leak and found that it was an extra heavy steel line that the tool was not going to be able to deal with. Back to the store. One look at the line and the parts guy knew that he did not have the tools to do the repair. Fortunately two other customers there knew a little about the injector lines and convinced me that I could use a simple compression connector and it would work just fine. I am not a fan of compression connectors as I have seen too many of them leak under sinks with just household water pressure. Diesel injectors are much higher pressure, but I was in a bind so I thought I would give it a try. I took it back to the boat and reassembled the injector line with the compression connector. I checked it out at the dock, and when it looked like it was holding, we took the boat out on to Charlevoix Lake and ran it. I ran it both hard and easy several times to check it out and everything held fine. So tomorrow we can go. Since I did not trust the connector long term I went on line ordered a new injector line for delivery to Traverse City.

Monday, August 23^rd

We made the 7:30 bridge opening today and plan to go to Traverse City instead of stopping in Northport which puts us back on our planned schedule. It is really calm out here today so I can actually get some work done underway. I checked online on the part I ordered yesterday and boy I am glad I did. They were not going to ship until Tomorrow and 2^nd day air would mean that we would have to stay an extra day in Traverse City. I called to see if it could be shipped next day air. Turns out that the part was not even in stock (even though the website said 'in stock”) and I was told that they did not know when it would be shipped since they were not even Volvo Diesel dealers! I canceled the order and one website and two phone calls later I found one in stock that would be shipped today- with expected arrival Wednesday.

We are meeting up with Windsong again, seems that Two Turtles and Magoo are about 150 miles ahead of us. Unless they stop for a while we may not meet up with them until we get to the Tennessee River.

We made good time and arrived at Traverse City about 3:00pm. Traverse City is about a 50 mile side trip for us. One of the former Meerwald Captains, Matt lives near here and we want to visit with him. He met us at the dock with our mail and several packages and offered to loan us a car for tomorrow – a real bonus!

Cheyenne a former mate on the Meerwald and now Captain on Manitou (Traverse City's Tall Ship) stopped by to say hello. She was flying to the Tall Ship festival in Chicago in an hour, but we did get to sit and talk for a bit.

Tuesday, August 24^th

Matt actually loaned us Wendy's car for the day. Wendy is the Office Manager at Traverse City Tall Ship and that was where our mail was sent. They actually live about 30 miles away on a small piece of land near a state wildlife area, and besides the wildlife they are in a small cooperative chicken venture- so we got a dozen eggs with the car.

We did lots of shopping for parts and food today.

We had dinner with Matt and Wendy and really enjoyed being with them. They offered the car for another day.

Wednesday, August 25^th

The main reason for loaning us the car for another day was so that Carole could get a haircut. I got started cleaning and waxing the plastic flybridge windows. Matt had suggested we visit the Music House Museum in Acme, so I got out of cleaning the boat for another day! Tomorrow is not supposed to be a good travel day so I may be cleaning tomorrow.

The Music House Museum is a collection of Automatic Music Machines – Nickelodeons, player pianos, etc. They have a player piano that reproduces the artists' key pressure as well as timing and strokes. We heard “Rhapsody in Blue” played by George Gershwin. It sounded wonderful, not like any player piano I ever heard. It was a grand Piano and at the end the tour group was applauding. They also have the automatic orchestra/organ that was at the entrance to the Wildwood Amusement Pier for many years. It uses a book instead of a roll to play the music. There is also a mechanical violin player and a 40' wide x 18' high mechanical dance orchestra. All of these and more work and were played for us during the tour. While we were listening to the instruments we found ourselves grinning. This was a real highlight for both Carole and me.

The violin player with piano player behind to accompany it.

This reproduces a full dance orchestra

After getting the car back to Wendy I also picked up the new injector line and installed it. While down in the engine room I found a small leak in the Air conditioner inlet which I fixed and then decided some ballast that was midship could be me moved to port and help get rid of our list to starboard.

Weather report has changed. We may be able to get to Northport (25 miles) or even Leland (about 50 miles) if the forecast holds.

I get to avoid cleaning the boat again!

Thursday, August 26^th

Clear, cool and relatively calm. Underway at 7:30. With an 8-9 hour run an early start is helpful. It is a little bumpy, but as we leave Traverse Bay and turn south it has gotten a lot easier.

We met up with 5 other Loopers in Leland, Michigan and 4 of us went to Bluebird Tavern for fried smelts.

Wing Report – not advertised as Buffalo Wings, but they were close: Flavor – 4, Meaty – 3, Crispy – 3, Heat -3, Total 13 not too shabby!

The smelts and onion rings were great.

Weather report for tomorrow is poor for us. Winds 15-20 and seas 3-5 feet coming straight at us. This may continue for 4 days. Lake Michigan must not love us.

Friday, August 27^th

Took a walk through town. It is a very pleasant place. Well kept houses and several nice art galleries. There is a restored section called Fishtown right near the marina. It is mostly tourist shops, well done just nothing special. There is at least one commercial fishing boat and fish smoking house. The best smoked lake trout so far.

I spent the rest of the day cleaning, polishing and watching the waves break over the high stone breakwater. Latest report says at least one more day here and then maybe a break. We have one more 8- 10 hour day and then we 2, 4, and 6 hour options most of the rest of the way to Chicago.

Saturday, August 28^th

Another day of watching the waves break over the seawall. Took a walk to the lake in the afternoon and watched a wedding party leave the restaurant in four pontoon boats to the cheers of the crowd on the bridge nearby. Annie got a short swim/run in the lake – I could not throw a stick far enough for her to find water deep enough to swim in.

Leland Fishing Village

Sunday, August 29^th

We got a small break in the seas so we are leaving. Waves are only 2-3 feet high on the nose. I know that does not seem like much, but the constant pounding and pitching of the boat can wear you down. After 6 hours we pulled in to Frankford, MI. Called Matt, Wendy was able to get off a bit early so after we had a Looper's Social Hour on board, Matt and Wendy took us to dinner at the”Cabbage Shed” in Elberta. Matt was driving his 1951 Morris Mini. Good wings: Crispy – 3, Taste -4, heat -3, Meaty -3, total 13.

Some of the Dunes along the Lake

Monday, August 30^th
Another bumpy ride to get to Manatee. The marina and town got a “thumbs down” from the Old Grouch, but after a tiring ride we thought we would go in to a lake behind town and anchor. Q's End called out to us from a slip. I tried to get them on the radio, but there was no answer. We proceeded through to the lake and were looking for a spot to anchor when they called us on the radio. Since the marina was redoing its shower and bathroom facilities they were giving a 40% discount. For $22 a night we took a slip. I am not sure what The Old Grouch did not like. It was not a terrible place. The town had some interesting art galleries and the market was pretty convenient.

Tuesday, August 31^st

No happiness on Lake Michigan today, so I got to clean some more. I also spent some time trying to splice lines on the new fenders we got in Traverse City. Splicing double braid without the proper size fid is almost impossible. I gave up. Meanwhile Carole used the time to make and insect screen for the starboard door. It is a quite complicated shape and will take at least one more day.

Wednesday, September 1^st

Three months gone by and all is going pretty well. The boat inside is still a work in progress (as far as stowing stuff) but I am happy with it.

The call was for 2-3 ft. waves today. As we left Manatee we were slammed with a 6 footer and my nice clean deck took a full cup of coffee. Annie then decided to lay down at my feet (she was upset by the wave) and proceeded to spread the coffee and her hair around the flybridge floor. The seas stayed at the 3-4 level; with some 5's thrown in. Our speed at cruising rpm is normally 7 mph. The seas kept us at 5 – 5 ½ mph. After we turned around a point of land and changing course to head for a harbor we were taking the waves broadside and rolling 15º side to side. Fortunately it eased off a bit and the last two hours were only a bit uncomfortable. We stopped in Pentwater – took a walk through town and had dinner with Tom & Linda from Q's End. Wing report, Village Cafe: Crispy -1, Taste -3, Meaty -4, Heat -2, Total -10. I am glad the salad was really good.

Thursday, September 2^nd

After 17 days we have gotten a forecast that looks like an easy day. And so far they are right! Lake is almost flat.

Early morning on the Lake

At 9:30 the waves have picked up to 1', still easy going. By 10:30 the waves were at 2' and by 11:30 we are seeing 3' and still building. When we enter White Lake we are really rocking and rolling – so much for the forecast! The five boats split up. Three went to the municipal marina and two of us to Crosswinds Marina. The marinas are close together so it is easy to walk to the other boats. We expect to stay for a few days so the plan is to go to Lazy Dolphin tomorrow night for Pizza.

Sunset at White Lake

Friday September 3^rd

Still waiting for the weather. Boat work and goofing off today. I was loaned the proper size fid by the marina manager and was able to eye splice the double braid line on the new fenders. Carole was making a screen for the starboard door.

Had lunch at the marina restaurant and it was pretty good. Dinner was slow cooked pork with Trader Joe's Indian Curry Sauce. Pizza party is tomorrow.

Saturday, September 4^th

Another weather day. Borrowed the Marina manager's Truck to go to the farmers market & supermarket. A really first class farm market. Some of the best looking fruits and vegetables yet. It is also the right time of year. Corn and tomatoes have been really good. We do miss the crabs though.

Pizza Party on Lazy Dolphin with Q's End, Windsong, and The Old Grouch. Consensus is tomorrow we go.

Sunday, September 5^th

Heading out at 11:00 am – only 10 miles to Muskegan or 23 miles to Grand haven if the lake is quiet enough. It is pretty cool out and the wind is in our face to start. Seas are in the 2-3 foot range. The top end of our comfort level. After an hour we turn south. The wind is now on our beam (side) making the ride pretty rolly. The boat is rocking through 20º. Wind and waves are down a bit though and we decide to go on to Grand haven. The town dock is very nice. It is located in a large waterfront park. Lots of people in the park. It is however rocking and rolling. The boats are bouncing a lot. The waves have a fairly straight run in from the lake and up the river.

Spaghetti Dinner on Windsong with the group. We then get to watch a light and sound show with a huge animated fountain across the river. Really well done and we had front row seats. It is a nightly show from Memorial Day to Labor Day. There were viewing stands in the park and they were full. The fountain and lights played to music that varied from pop to classical.

We spent the night with the boat bouncing off the dock.

Monday, September 6^th (Labor Day)

Wind is down a bit, but the lake still has 6' waves. Gale warnings on the lake for the next 2 days. We expect we will be here til Thursday. Rain has kept things quiet. Not many people in the park or on the docks. I did a (very) little cleaning in the v-berth and Carole was working on the Screen for the starboard door. We moved the boat to the other side of the dock so we would be blown away from the dock instead of against it. In the process of cleaning the grill I managed to drop the drip pan overboard. Fishing with a net did not work so I tried diving for it. The bottom here is thick with soft mud and visibility was zero. After about 10 dives I was cold and had to quit. All I fund was a pair of sunglasses. I think I will buy a new drip pan.

Watched the light show again. Different than last night. It was shorter and still very well done.

The wind started to pick up at 3:00 AM and while the boat rocked a lot we did not hit the dock.

Tuesday, September 7^th

Wind is still picking up. The only boats left here are us loopers. Everyone was out at 7:30 this morning adjusting dock lines and preparing for the heavier winds. The good news is that it is warmer and not raining.

Very rough day in the marina. The dock lines are chafing through and there is not enough chafing gear to cover all of the spots that need it. We had one line break from chafe and another that is trash. The backup lines that are already in place look good and are not chafing.

We went for a walk to the inlet and watched 6-8' waves coming almost straight in creating the surge we are getting at the dock. Surfers were walking out on the breakwalls, jumping in, and surfing to the beach. We watched several waves break over the 30' high lighthouse.

It was a difficult night with the surge stretching lines and straining the docks and cleats.

I missed the big one

They keep on rolling in

And in!

 

 

 

These are the little ones

Wednesday, September 8^th

Wind is a bit lighter today, and everyone is taking it easy. Walked to the farm market, spliced up some new dock lines and Carole continued to work on the screen for the door. Tonight looks pretty good and tomorrow is a go.

the calm after the storm

Thursday, September 9^th

Out on the lake with a following wind and only 2' waves. First day in 3 weeks without the 3 footers. We are making great time and hope it holds all day.

We made good time to South Haven, and traveled in comfort. While walking through town a parade of old tractors came through. There must have been 50 of them. There is an old engine and tractor show at the fairgrounds about five miles away. I would like to go there, but priority now is to get the heck off the lake.

Friday, September 10^th

Off to Michigan City this morning. It is Cold and a bit bumpy, but generally O.K. A rather uneventful trip. We did cross a state line and are now in Indiana. Got in too late to go to town. A had dinner at the yacht club. The special was wings – poor choice – Hot -2, Meaty -4, Taste -1, Crispy -1, total -8.

Saturday, September 11^th

On to Hammond Indiana. Hope to meet up with Victor there. He is Salvatore's (my brother-in-law) brother there. Haven't seen him in 15 years.

Seas started out calm and built to 2', but it was a short trip, about 4 ½ hrs. and we were in Hammond.

A nice marina with really nice friendly people on the dock. However it was about a ½ mile walk to the office and facilities. There is nothing nearby except the Casino and a beach. Everything else is across the road and about 12 railroad tracks.

We had a nice 2 hr. visit with Vic and he also drove me to the market (beer run) and back. One of the seasonal people had offered me a ride, but Vic was already on his way. He drew up a map for us which helped a lot.

We went to the Casino Buffet for dinner. Fantastic Buffet. The largest I have ever seen, everything from Crayfish to Southern Fried Chicken and everything in between., very reasonable and also quite good.

No I did not augment the casino's bottom line while there.

Tomorrow off to Chicago!