The North Channel

Tuesday August 10^th

Killarney is considered to be the end of the Georgian Bay or the beginning of the North Channel. Bit of fog this morning and just as we started to move to the pumpout the brigantine (a Tall Ship) Playfair took up most of the dock. When I went over to find out how long I would be there he noticed my Bayshore Discovery Tee Shirt and asked if I was involved with the A.J.Meeerwald. We talked for a bit and I found out he has met Jesse and knows Dave Leanza, one of our former mates. The Playfair is one of three brigantines out of Toronto that take teenagers for two week cruises. These 70 ft steel boats carry 28 people – 18 passengers and 10 crew – all except the captain are teenagers. He must be nuts!

The leak is still there, I tried using “X-Treme Tape” and it did a good job of slowing it to a very slow drip, but the surface is just too irregular. Tomorrow we should be near a hardware store and I can get a replacement washer. If not I will try more tape.

We traveled about 25 miles to Bay Fine, which is described as the closest thing to a Fiord on the East coast. I do not know about the fiord part, but traveling between limestone cliffs, with pine trees in every crack and notch is quite pretty. I do not understand what the trees live on. There is no dirt in some of the places, only rock, yet there are big trees growing there.

Trees will grow anywhere

We anchored at the head of the bay and took the dinghies (there were three boats) up another gorge. Serendipity could get there but the anchorage inside was very weedy and we preferred to stay on the outside. At the head of the gorge we hiked about ¾ mile uphill to Topaz Lake. A pristine blue lake surrounded by limestone cliffs. The hike was tortuous. Rocky stream beds and muddy hills to climb. Then it was almost straight down for another 200 ft. to the lake. Was it worth it? Depends on who you ask. I thought it was. Carole was happy to make it up and down safely, but the view was not worth the trip.

Another quiet night at anchor.

Wednesday, August 11^th

An easy day to Little Current. We tied up to the town dock. I spent the afternoon looking for parts and making repairs. Apparently the washers that were used to connect faucets 15-20 years ago (cone washers) are hard to find. The local hardware store had none and the clerk had never seen one. I was able to buy one of the new flexible connectors and extricate the washer from it. It worked and we have water pressure again.

Uphill to Lake Topaz

The generator fuel problem is another story. A check of the fuel line found an almost completely plugged fuel pickup. I tried blowing it clean with 60 lbs. Of air pressure and all I got was a trickle of air through. When I tried to remove it from the tank the nut molded inside the tank rotated. With no access to the inside of the tank I plugged the old pickup tube, drilled a hole in the tank and inserted the fuel line to about ½ inch off the bottom. I then sealed the tube to the tank. We now have a working generator again.

Had dinner with Randy and Barb (Lazy Dolphin) at the Anchor Inn. Wing Rating – Taste 3, Crispy -2, Heat -3, Meaty -3, total – 11. Pretty good and they served a lot of them.

Thursday August 12^th

Annie doesn't think much of my shower

A hazy warm day – got a late start. Close to noon by the time we left the fuel dock, but it is only a short 15 mile trip to Kagamond. About 3:00 we took a 1 kilometer trail to Bridal Veil Falls. Nice easy trail, lots of wildflowers. The falls was pretty, but even more fun was swimming in the pool and standing under the falling water. With a 50 – 60' drop I got a great massage. Annie refused to swim under the falling water, but she had a great swim. This is the first time since she was a pup that she swam with us. She would swim out, circle us and swim back to shore. She kept repeating it until one of us returned to shore.

Cocktails on Windsong who anchored out instead of taking a slip.

Friday August 13^th

Friday the 13^th! Woke up to find two brigantines tied up at the dock. They were Playfair and Pathfinder, the same two that we saw in Killarney. They tried to sail to the dock but the wind totally died. One of them actually kedged to the dock. (Sailspeak – Kedging is the process of rowing and anchor out as far as you can and then pulling the boat up to the anchor. Then repeating the process until you arrive at your destination. Or more commonly used to get the boat unstuck after a grounding.)

Underway about 10 AM. The other boats we have been with the last week or so are mostly ready to leave the North Channel. Lazy Dolphin Windsong and us are expecting to be back in the U.S. In three days. The Old Grouch is probably a day behind that. They are intrigued by the small towns where we have docked and want to visit more of them. As Canadians who keep their boat in Penantang (on the Georgian Bay) they will be able to see much of this territory after they complete the loop.

Cruising the North Channel

I can see why several of the boats we have met are cruising the Georgian Bay and North Channel this year and leaving their boat here or in Brewerton, NY for the winter. Next year they can do it again or continue on and complete the loop. There are certainly many more places to visit than we had time for. We want to be off Lake Michigan by mid September at the latest.

We headed back to the “Small Boat Route” through the North Channel. We found ourselves following Lazy Dolphin who had stayed in Little Current an extra day instead of going with us to Kangamond. We were headed to an anchorage recommended by Reese (Captain on the brigantine Playfair). It was beautiful, but not very good for us. It was too deep most places and the shallow areas were all flat rock with no place for the anchor to dig in. There was a rock wall we could have tied up to, but there were no trees big enough to hold us or anything else we could tie to. We had to leave there and found a nice anchorage between four islands and spent a quiet night, after I replaced the fuel filter for the generator.

Nothing to tie up to

 Saturday, August 14^th

Decided to make a long run today. We had several possible destinations in mind and did not need to pick one for the first three hours. Half an hour out it started raining and intermittently it rained so hard we couldn't see. As decision time approached Lazy Dolphin (who caught up with us in the rain) decided to head south to Vidal Bay. By coincidence – or not – it is only a few miles west of Gore Bay. Vidal Bay along with Blind River were my original destinations, but then I found the Grant Islands on the charts. They are all about the same distance, but the Grant Isles put us 10 mile closer to the U.S. customs check in tomorrow.

At one o'clock the weather cleared up some so it became an easy run the rest of the way.

Another Quiet Anchorage

East Grant Island was supposed to be the better anchorage, however at 40' deep we passed on it. West Grant proved to be much better. We went for a walk on Anchor Island, saw some nice wild flowers. I found a rock with a fossil imprint, and Annie of course got her water romp. Another beautiful clear night with no wind.

I started wondering what makes this area so special for me. Then I started thinking about what makes anyplace special or extraordinary. My thoughts of course wandered all over and I concluded that for me it is a place that I know I want to return and see more. Not very profound, Eh! (Too much Canada)

So if I want to see more, why don't we stay longer? Well one or two more weeks would not put a dent in what I want, and the weather dictates when we have to leave. Besides, I do not do cold. We also have a goal of completing the loop. So perhaps next year or the year after we can spend an entire summer in the Georgian Bay & North Channel, or maybe we will find someplace else to see. Actually next year we are considering the 1000 Islands, Montreal, and the Rideaux Canal mini loop. We shall see.

Sunday, August 15^th

Out in the North Channel

Clear and calm – about a 25 mile trip to the U.S. Customs dock at on Drummond Island. A 4 hour trip for us, over open water, so it is set the autopilot and keep watch. Scored a few points this morning. I picked some raspberries for Carole's breakfast while walking Annie.

The trip started out calm. By the time we got to U.S. waters, 3 hours later, the wind was up to 20 kts. and a two foot chop with white caps on our nose. We should be in a sheltered bay in 15 minutes.

Clearing customs was a non-event. The customs officer helped us dock our boat! We took on fuel and pumped out while there. On to Detour Village for the night. Supposed to have better facilities and closer shopping. The wind is still blowing hard, 25 kts. Docking straight into the wind proved more difficult than I expected. It took several tries, but we made it.

If this town has more facilities than Drummond, Drummond Islands must have none. We did find one restaurant that actually served dinner after 7:00 PM. Everything else was closed on Sunday. The food was very good.

Monday, August 16^th

Hung around today to wait out the weather. This gave us the opportunity to do some shopping and some computer catch up. Tomorrow does not look great, but may be doable. We can go 24 miles to Government Bay and then another 30 the next day to Mackinac Island or make one 40 mile day to Mackinac Island direct. With the wind looking poor the next day also we decide to go and decide when we get to the Government Bay turnoff.

Tuesday, August 17^th

Cool and windy again. We get an early start. It is fairly rough- 2-4 ft. waves, but right on our nose again, so while it is not comfortable it is tolerable. Six more hours of this if it does not change. When we get to the decision point it appears to be 2 hrs. to Government Bay or 4 Hrs. to Mackinac Island. The island is very visible in front of us and beckons us on. Now that we have passed the decision point the wind and seas take their revenge. Seas go to 3-5 ft. with an occasional 6 footer. I decide to burn a bit more fuel to keep our speed up and we arrive at Mackinac (pronounced Mack-in-awe) at 1:00.

We are promptly greeted by a mink sitting in the rocks at the head of the slip. It promptly disappeared as soon as I picked up the camera.

Mackinac Island is quite different. For starters it is a culture shock for us. We are coming off the Georgian Bay and North Channel where there are few people, even counting all of the boats we saw. Here there are thousands of tourists coming and going on ferries every day. We are told that the daytime population of the island is 10,000 and at night the population drops to 2000. Secondly change is the thousands of bicycles in the streets. And the third difference is the reason for the second. There are no motorized vehicles on the island (except for an ambulance and fire truck). So all commerce is by horse drawn wagons or trucks. People either walk, bike, or take a carriage.

We walked through town with Annie and you would think that she is a rock star. Almost everyone wanted to pet her, and she loved it at first, then she just ignored them.

The Bakery Truck

Not only are the tours conducted in horse drawn wagons, but the delivery trucks/wagons, garbage trucks, and even the street sweeper are all horse drawn. We watched one two horse team back the trash/recycle wagon around a 90° corner downhill on a driveway! I can not back a trailer even close to that well, and these horses have to do it every day!

The overall effect of the bikes and horses is to slow down the pace. I do not find the crowds oppressive like I usually do. The main street however is strictly tourist. Fudge Shops (17), “T” shirt shops, gift shops, and a few restaurants, OH and one food market all in about five blocks. During our walk we gathered the information we needed to be tourists tomorrow.

And the Fudge Shops!

Wednesday August 18

I have called the horse drawn wagons “trucks” since most of them, including the tour carriages have automobile or truck wheels. Some carriages have large spoke type wheels, but most of the vehicles have balloon tires which makes for a more comfortable ride. So I call the wagons, trucks.

Ate breakfast out this morning and then got on a carriage tour of the Island. We lucked out and got front row seats on the carriage. These carriages seat 24 people and are pulled by two LARGE horses. The horses are Belgian and Percherons. They work ½ day, 5 or 6 days a week. The tour takes us through town, past the Grand Hotel, the stables, and on to a transfer station where we change on to a larger wagon pulled by a three horse team – and if I thought the first horses were large these are even bigger. The back of the horses are easily over 6 feet high, and we are told that they weigh about 2000 lbs. Each. The wagons take us through the state park area with a photo (and horse watering) stop at Arch Rock. When climbing the hills the drivers stop often to give the horses a breather, and going downhill they have hydraulic brakes to keep the wagon from running over the horses.

The wrong end of a three horse team

The carriage tour stops at Fort Mackinac and allows those who want to tour the fort to get off. We get off to avoid having to climb up the hill from town. Going home downhill later will be much easier.

The restoration of the fort is nicely done. They do many reenactments and have a number of period dressed guides available. The boy and girl scouts also come up for a week or two and in exchange for quarters and a chance to see the island they act as volunteer hosts, giving directions, offering to take pictures, etc. We watched a court martial of an enlisted soldier who was drunk and disorderly. And then we stopped to watch a demonstration of soldiers drilling and firing rifles. We wound up being the drillees. I really did not need to be reminded how to drill. I gave that up 50 years ago. It was fun, however watching kids, moms and dads winding up all over the field as the commands were called. We did not get to fire the rifles though.

The drill team before the start

We were able to catch a ride on the carriage tour back to town. We did not go to the Grand Hotel to walk on the porch. The hotel has the longest porch in the world. We did not walk on it. The hotel charges $10.00 just to enter the hotel, unless you are a hotel guest, or want to have lunch buffet there. Somehow $50.00 each for lunch doesn't do it for me just to walk on the porch and have lunch.

The entire front is one long porch

While we were up at the fort we saw Windsong and Lazy Dolphin coming across from the North Channel. They also had a rough crossing.

Thursday August 9^th

We went to the Art Museum this morning. A combination of local art, native American artifacts and old photographs and paintings from the island.

Three ferries arriving at Mackinac Island

At one o'clock we left Mackinac Island to cross to Mackinaw City. It was a quick two hour trip punctuated by incessant wakes from all of the ferries running to the island. There are three ferry companies and each company has a ferry every ½ hr. from both Mackinaw City and Ignace – and they are all loaded with visitors!

Mackinaw City is also loaded with tourists. We did a bit of food shopping at the local IGA. We walked there, but gave Carole a ride back. I had to walk back since Annie was with me. We went to dinner at the local bar – the sign on the wall says “BAR” It was really pretty good. The two restaurants in town came with really poor revues from several tourists that were wandering the town.
At the marina the Mackinac Straights bridge is almost overhead.

Tomorrow we leave the North Channel and head into Lake Michigan.

Georgian Bay

You are looking at a mural on a full size grain elevator

After Locking through Port Severn we thought we had it made . After all “The Georgian Bay” is one of the finer cruising grounds, open water, lots of Islands,plenty of anchorages and great scenery.
Leaving the lock in Port Severn guess what we found – all of the above except the “Open Water” part. We had to negotiate – yes you guessed it – more narrow rocky channels until we reached an opening to the bay and we headed for Midland. Great Mural on the grain elevators. We also got to watch some races. The canoes started out by rowing and then switched to sail when there was enough wind. We stopped there for a short shopping trip and then headed across the harbor and anchored out off of a state park.

Monday through Thursday – July 26^th to 29^th

Bay Moorings is sponsoring a Looper's Reunion. It is just a short ride around to the other side of the Peninsula to Penantanguishine (hereafter called Penantang).About 19 Looper boats are expected. We know about ½ of them at this point. The Marina charged for the docking, but all of the other events were free. It started Monday night with a wine and Cheese party – a great mixer. And they announced that on Tuesday at 11:00 would be the start of the Cardboard Boat race.

Putting the deck on Loopers Blooper

Teams were to to consist of two boats – we get to choose our own teammates. Four teams formed up. At 11:00 o'clock each team got to pick their own refrigerator box out of a pile, and we were each given a box knife (not many metal detectors out here) and two rolls of duct tape. We had 1 ½ hrs. to build our boats. Bill (from High Spirits) and I did most of the building, Barbara was our Gopher and Carole was the Decorator. We had thought a bit about it ahead of time. Bill was sure we would run out of time so we finished the basic boat in ½ hour and had way too much time to decorate it. Carole made a name board “Loopers Bloopers” and then painted a mermaid (complete with nipples) on the foredeck. Since the piece of cardboard we used for the foredeck came with a round hole in it we had to put a flagpole up. We used a broom for the mast, three stays and AGLCA and Bay Moorings pennants flew from it. If there had been a prize for decoration (there wasn't) we would have won it easily! Bill also used the extra time to completely cover the outside of the boat with duct tape to help make it more water resistant.

At 12:30 they served us lunch and at one the race was on!

The building of the "SLED"

I was the driver since I was lighter than Bill and neither Carole or Barbara would even consider getting into a cardboard boat – even if it was completely covered with Duct Tape. The race started from the boat launch ramp, went out about 25 yards to a docked boat then ½ way back to another dock where we were given a drink to finish before the finish line and back to the ramp and a short run to the finish line.

The starting Line

The Start

Well at least most of us started

The "SLED" takes off

I start behind these two

Chugging Along

Second to the start line,
the finish is ten yards up the ramp.

Award Ceremony

I predicted that our boat would not sink, but that I would probably turn it over. I almost did. As the race started I slipped on the ramp on to my butt, taking the boat with me. There was only 2” of water at that point and Bill caught the boat. The slip at the start put me 3^rd of out four boats. The fourth boat turned over at the start & never floated. The boat in front was an ingenious design. It was basically a surfboard and the driver/captain lay on it and propelled it with swim fins. I knew I had no chance against him as I was using a kayak paddle and our boat was basically a box with a slanted front. Does paddling a potato chip give you the picture? Each stroke I took would spin the boat around and I would need to take a stroke quickly on the other side to keep it more or less in the right direction. We did have that nifty flagpole though! In second place was a more conventional type boat, slightly pointed in front and it was being propelled by a kayak paddle made of two oars taped together. He was struggling and as I passed him I watched his boat fill with water and sink. I eventually got sort of a rhythm going, but the surfboard was at the drink station by the time I reached the turn. Fortunately he had not heard that he had to finish the drink before finishing the race. It gave him a pause which gave the water more time to soak in to the cardboard. The drink was in some kind of kids sipping cup with the straw all wound around the outside of it. It felt like I was sucking my guts out each time I tried to drink more. I had the straw in my teeth and was paddling and sucking while I tried to catch up. Jay, on the surfboard, got off the surfboard before it got back to the start line and had to go back. By then the board was totally waterlogged and he was out of gas. He could not get the boat to move. He got off and dragged it to the start line, but he was wearing flippers and I got the boat to the start line about the same time he did. Without flippers on it was no contest to the finish. I was so tired that I couldn't break the the tape, or maybe it was because they used Police Barrier Tape (that's my excuse). The whole thing was a blast and it was even better because we won. The “Boat” was on display all the next day in front of the Marina Office. On Wednesday night they did a Barbeque Buffet Dinner, and the boat was on display again. One boater had Carole sign the deck and she took it on her boat as a memento.

Blacksmith

During the day on Wednesday we visited a recreated Jesuit/Indian village, circa 1629 . Using Archeological findings the St. Marie village was recreated. It was originally built so the Jesuits could convert the Indians to Christianity. In the end it created a conflict in the native community and led to the end of the tribe. Intern/Guides dressed in period dress were stationed in many of the buildings. They were usually engaged in an activity that was common at that period (making candles, birch bark pots, wooden planks, etc.) It was very well done and they were quite knowledgeable. Carole got to try her hand at writing with a quill pen, difficult but with practice it was doable.

After the village we visited the Martyrs Shrine commemorating those who died Christianizing the local natives. It was – well a shrine. The church was beautiful, just not my thing.

A BBQ at night with a good presentation on the trip up the Georgian Bay – what to see, what routes to take, places to anchor, and places to avoid capped the gathering.

Mitch practicing his vise

On Thursday morning there was a 1 on 1 route planning and Q & A session, and at noon we headed out on to the Georgian Bay. 2 ½ hours later we were anchored in Longuissa Bay with about a dozen other boats – One was another looper and one about to be. Had cocktails aboard Windsong a 38' sailing catamaran out of Salem Mass. With three chocolate labs aboard.

The trick in this area is finding a place to take Annie ashore. Most of the land around here is privately owned and it is not considered polite to go ashore on some ones land. There are many smallish rock islands in the anchorages and the locals call them “Dog Poop Islands” and they are! It does work for us.

Friday July 30^th

A 35 mile trip takes us up the 30,000 islands to Port Rossum Bay. This is a Dominion Weekend – The first weekend of every month is a 3 day weekend) and by 2:30 when we arrive there are boats in almost every anchoring spot. We have been traveling with Windsong and Lazy Dolphin is also coming so we are looking for a place to anchor 3 boats. We finally find a cove with enough room and all get anchored

Serendipity at anchor

The trip was really pretty. This area is an outcropping of the Canadian Shield and there is solid rock everywhere. We might be traveling in water 90-150 feet deep and the shore is 20 feet away! Like nothing I have ever seen before. Social hour on our bridge today.

Weather has been cool and very comfortable. Great for sleeping but a bit cool for swimming although Annie doesn't think so. She jumps in to the water every time I take her to shore.

Saturday July 31^st

We will probably stay put today. Yesterday we were besieged by lots of boats rushing about. I expect today will be much worse and anchorages will be full by the time we get to them at 7 mph. One thought was for the 6 of us to get in a dinghy and go for an early dinner at Henry's fish camp about 5 miles back. We shall see. Carole, Annie and I took a short dinghy ride this morning and then hiked a little on a nearby island. This is National Park territory so there are no private lands or cottages here. Lots of moss and lichens growing on the rocky land. We did find a patch of black raspberries for a morning snack. Back at the boat we had a bacon and egg brunch.

Carole Fishing

Carole started fishing and I was headed out in a kayak with a fishing rod when I heard a shout. Carole had caught a 2 lb. Smallmouth bass. I spent the next hour and a half fishing all of the “good” spots and caught nothing, while Carole got her bass under the boat on a worm. So much for the great fisherman! Anyway fish dinner tonight.

Bass for dinner was good. It was a clear cool evening and with no lights for miles around the stars were incredible.

We have decided to stay another day and have lunch at Henry's Fish Camp on our way up the bay on Monday.

It has been three days without internet, and I am still going through withdrawals. Although we still have cell phone service I feel like I have lost contact with the rest of the world as I know it. We can sort of get one TV station and we have a few DVD's of shows we recorded. It is likely we will be in this situation for the next few weeks so I better get over it.

Sunday August 1^st

The group at Moon River Falls

Overcast, cool with a light wind. One side of the dinghy was deflated this morning. It was the patched side and I was concerned that the patch failed, however I found the cap on one of the inflation valves was off and it probably leaked out overnight. I re inflated it and took Annie to shore and it is holding fine.

Mitch contemplating a dive

We are riding about 7 miles to Moon River Falls with two other boats in their dinghies (ours is too small and too slow). We were told that it is a great place to visit and we do not want to miss it. Sun is coming out but still lots of cloud cover. What a fun trip. An hours ride through rock canyons and open bays took us to the head of the Moon River and a small falls. The place was loaded with campers, day trippers, canoes, and rental aluminum boats. Kids (young and old) were jumping off the rocks in to the pool below the falls, others like us, were just hiking and looking. I thought about trying a jump but I was already cold and the prospect of an hours ride back at 20 mph in a wet bathing suit stopped me.

Social Hour tonight on Lazy Dolphin.

Monday august 2^nd

Raised anchor at 10:30 and headed NW to Henry's Fish Camp for lunch. I got a birthday card signed by everyone, Barb & Randy, Jay & Joan, and Carole. Had a Henry Burger which is Fried Pike (Walleye) on a roll and enough fries (nice and crispy) to feed all six of us. Everyone got that that many fries. Pretty good lunch and a great show. Dock hands (3 at a time) running to help dock all of the boats arriving and they were being choreographed by the dockmaster up on the hill. At the same time seaplanes were landing and taxiing in. About 8 planes were in and out while we were eating lunch. Several had to wait for dock space.

Seaplanes at Henry's Fish Camp

Carole has observed that the Canadian dock hands were way better than the U.S. Hands. They listen and and seem to be more knowledgeable and they are not looking for tips. In fact we have had several refuse them.

After lunch we continued on to Parry Sound. The marina is run by the local Chamber of Commerce and the dock hands did not live up to Carole' Canadian standard. Nice town – Bobby Orr's hometown – we did not go t the museum, but did go to the movies. Saw “Inception”. Very different, somewhat strange at first and then very good. We really liked it.

Tuesday August 3^rd

Shopping and laundry took up the morning. I was a little antsy so we hooked up with Windsong and pushed on another 15 miles. After negotiating a lot of narrow channels (Windsong took the outside route so they could sail a bit) we entered Snug Harbor. It was too small and shallow for us to anchor so Windsong headed for a side bay behind an island. We heard a loud crunch and saw Windsong had run up on a submerged rock. Jay was distracted by two girls in Bikini's paddling a canoe. He claimed that they seemed to be struggling and he wanted to give them room. Fortunately he did little damage although it did take both of our boats at almost full power to get him off. The owner of the nearby island came out in his outboard and helped turn Windsong around. He also offered to pull them off with his tug. When they asked if he was affiliated with Towboat US (Windsong's towing insurance) he told them that there would be no charge. The local people here are amazing. A number of people stopped to see if they could help. When we anchored behind the island, one boater came by to tell me that I might be anchoring on the island's power cable. At that point Bob (the island's owner) came over to return the towline I had used. He told me that it was only his phone cable and that if I raised the anchor and saw the line to just remove it from the anchor. The three of us (Bob, myself, and the other boater) sat and talked for a half hour about tug boats. Bob's was a 1942 restored tug.

Jay and Joan insisted on treating us to dinner. On the way over in their dinghy we saw a mink running around in the rocks. A really good fish and chips (what else?) restaurant. They had just finished smoking a batch of whitefish which was excellent.

Wednesday August 4^th

Started this morning with a call shortly after we left Snug Harbor. Windsong had lost both its engines. They were able to run slowly, and we accompanied them back in to Snug Harbor. After some investigation we found a fuel filter on one engine was loose so that engine problem was solved. The other engine appeared to have a failed fuel pump. Jay had an electric pump that he could use to replace the engine pump. We were sent on our way whole he did the repair, cleaned up and did some testing.

We continued on to Hopewell Bay. Lazy Dolphin had gone on to Pointe Au Baril found nothing and came on back to Hopewell Bay. Windsong and Selah also also showed up there. We hosted social hour on our flybridge.

Thursday August 5^th

Carole had a mini melt down today. After the grounding of Windsong she was understandably nervous about hidden rocks. On entering Hopewell Bay last night I was headed for what I thought was the opening, when Carole came up she pointed out that I was one island off and that it was real shallow where I was headed. I naturally argued with her, but she was right. The combination of events did shake her up a bit. Being used to mud bottoms where if you run aground it is only an inconvenience to a rock bottom where hitting something hurts either the people or the boat is a big transition. So I understand the concern and we have come to some agreements and I have promised to be more diligent.

We took a 2 ½ hour bumpy ride across Byng (pronounced bing) inlet and ran about 4 miles up to Britt. A nice marina and campground. I was able to refill our propane tank. I can not exchange it since it is an aluminum tank. We ran the refrigerator 14 days (some of them 24 hrs.) as well as cooking on the tank. I am happy with that.

A tight Channel

We did a chart session with Selah, Windsong and Lazy Dolphin to see where we would go the next day.

Friday August 6^th
Wind is not quite as bad this morning. We had some short fairly exposed runs. In the afternoon we had our choice of a tight inside passage or an outside run. Selah took the outside (they were about 1 ½ hrs ahead of us) and anchored in the Bustard Isles after reporting a 1 -2 ft. chop. Windsong (about ½ hr. ahead ) decided to push on to Beaverstone Bay on the outside. I called Lazy Dolphin (about 45 Minutes ahead) to find out what they had found, and learned that they had taken the inside channel. They reported it was well marked and very scenic although it was a bit tight is was doable. We had just reached the decision point and were leaning towards the outside run when Randy's report changed our mind. Carole was O.K. As long as it was well marked – so off we went! One of our best decisions so far this trip. It was a spectacular trip. When Randy told us it was tight, but easy it was before he had come to Obstacle Island and Parting Channel. About 25 minutes after we entered the channel Barb called and said if we thought we had seen tight and narrow she said: “You ain't seen nothing yet!” WOW – we turned into parting channel and were looking at a huge rock in front of us. The channel was maybe 30 ft. wide and in about 2 ½ boat lengths we we had to turn left at the rock. Turn right around the rock and then left again to avoid hitting our flybridge on an overhanging rock. The vistas were wonderful. Looking our over all of the red rocks surrounded by water. It was a real beautiful treat.

The narrows

Uh Oh!

Made the first turn

This is what we saw after the first turn

We then took a short run outside and up the Bad Rive to an anchorage at Devils Rapids. I was having trouble deciding where to anchor when Randy offered to have us raft up to them. After a bit of a struggle we managed to set our anchor and tie up alongside the Lazy Dolphin.

What a great anchorage. We took the dinghy to go on a nearby island with Annie. On the way we thought we we look around for Devils Rapids before the walk. ! ½ hrs. later we got back to the boat. We had gone through the rapids (it was running slow this time of year) and in to a canyon. Then we took a side canyon up to a small falls and then found another canyon that we followed for about ¾ mile up to another falls. When we got back I took Randy and Barb up there as their dinghy is too large to go there safely.

Rafted in Bad River

Small Canyon near Devils Rapids

Cardinal Flowers at Devils Rapids

One of the rapids - no we did not go up them!

We were intrigued enough to decide to stay for another day.

Saturday August 7^th

Cool, sunny and calm this morning. Carole heard a strange sound and went out to see if the dinghy was rubbing against the boat. She called me to come see. Up on the hill on the Island next to us were a pair of Sandhill Cranes feeding (we had too look them up). We watched them for about 15 minutes before they flew away.

We went off with Randy and Barb in two dinghys – we took Annie and hoped to hike on the island nearby. If we could climb to the to we would get a great view of the area. We tried four different approaches and each one was separated from the highest island by water. We wound up motoring around the island and never did find a way up to the top. We did have a fun afternoon drifting down alongside the rocks with the current.

On a Hike at the rapids

Sunday August 8^th

The day started overcast with a short rain shower. We decided last night that if the wind died we would go today. It mostly died, but the forecast was for 15 kts. In the morning building to 20 by noon. We were undecided. Lazy Dolphin contacted The Old Grouch who were already underway. They reported that it was lumpy, but O.K. We both decided to go. It was a bit uncomfortable but doable. We would only be underway outside the protection of the islands for 1 ½ hrs. And then the rain started. We pulled in and anchored behind Burnt Island in the Beaverstone Bay (still in the Georgian Bay) in a pouring rain. It is 1 o'clock and there is no wind- I mean none- and lots of rain (not in the forecast). Makes one wonder what the forecasters are doing. After we anchored at 1:00 we spent the afternoon working on a puzzle. After the rain cleared we took a dinghy ride over to the nearby island (not Burnt Island). Interesting rock formations. It looked like the rocks had been set in concrete similar to the way bricks look with ribbons of cement between them. Carole and I both liked the island so it is now “our island”! Since the 20 kt. Winds were non-existent we had a beautiful evening.

Aah!

Monday August 9^th

Mist in the treetops at 7:30 am and very calm. At 8:00 the fog starts to drop and by 9:00 we socked in solid. Lazy Dolphin and The Old Grouch who are in the anchorage with us are invisible. By 10:00 the fog had lifted and we got underway. We are headed for Killarney and it proves to be another really scenic trip. It is really amazing how the rocks and the formations change as we move along. Every channel seems different. I realize that the pictures do not show it to its best, but every area we pass through has a different feel to it.

By the time we reach Killarney it has gotten quite warm. This has been the first real swimming weather in about a month. I had really expected to see more warm weather than we have had. Killarney harbor was not the most inviting swimming place, but the shower in the marina was great!

On the trip over I found the water tank empty. I did not think we could have used that much, but it was possible. When we arrived I filled the tank and turned on the water pump. It seemed to be running a long time when Carole found water coming out from under the sink in the forward head. I shut off the pump and found the hot water pipe going in to the sink had pulled out. I replaced and tightened it, but still had a slow leak. There is no hardware store in Killarney. I shut off the water pressure for the night and hope that we can find a hardware store soon.

We went to the “World Famous Fish and Chips” at Herbert's Fishery. We ate it on the patio at the dock. It was really fresh since the fish come to the dock on on side, are cleaned and then cooked on the other side. Service is out of an old school bus. Have to say the fish was slightly overcooked.

Stoney Lake Onwards

Thursday, July 15th
The WiFi Antenna works. Without it I got an unusable signal from the Resort, with it I got a good solid wifi connection.

This is all rock

We did some housecleaning this morning, had lunch and then left for an anchorage in the middle of Stoney Lake. We had met a fishing guide at the resort and when we told him about Carole's search for the cabin she used to vacation in, he showed us a place we could anchor nearby and be able to take Annie to shore. Since almost all of the islands and shoreline are private you can not go ahsore just anywhere, so his advice was appreciated. The trip took all of 45 minutes and we were anchored (for the first time this trip) in 15' of water by 2:00. We were surrounded on 3 sides by islands, all rocky. The bottom is rock also. It is really strange. The wind is light so most of our anchor chain is laying on the bottom and as the boat swings we can here the chain dragging across the rocks. A bit different than the muddy bottom on the Chesapeake.
We took a ride in the dinghy to “Carole's” island. She was surprised that after 58 years there was much that had not changed. I was surprised that she recognized it and also that she was able to pick it out from a chart! After all, she was only 12 the last time she was there and at that age who thought about how she got there. The building had been refurbished and was quite different, but the property ( and nearby properties) still had the same layout.
Friday, July 16th

We took another tour of the area and stopped at the property to see if there was anyone she could talk to. We found a woman sunning herself on the boathouse deck and she came down to talk to us. Turns out they had only bought the property a month ago. She (Karen) and her husband, Mike, knew a lot of the history, and was interested in more. He knew of the woman that Carole's family had been there with. When Carole mentioned about when she had been there Mike immediately asked if it was Billinghurst or McDonald? It was Billinghurst who Carole had lost touch with. She had owned and visited the property until she was in her nineties and played bridge with one of the locals for many years. She had sold it in 2001. They gave us a tour of the property and offered a house tour, but it had been changed so much that Carole only took a quick one. It was really great. We left with a promise to send them any pictures Carole could find from when they visited as they were quite interested in the history.
We had been told by our Canadian friends on “Scallywag” that lots on the lake sell for 3-400 thousand. Mike corrected that to ½ million. Also the zoning laws do not allow new building within 150' of the lake front so they need to build on the old footprint. 150' back from the lake and there is no view. Trees can not be taken down either.
We made a visit to a nearby island for Annie to romp and swim.
Actually made coffee this morning without starting the generator! We may be getting a handle on this power thing. I will keep on trying things until we find the limits and then live with it.

In charts we trust!

I finished the morning by puncturing the dinghy. No more anchoring until I repair it. Fortunately we will have many more lock walls to tie up to.
Raised the anchor about noon and headed back to the waterway. We were tied up at lock 31 by 3:30. The last few days have been really nice. The rocky river and islands are fascinating. Running in a channel where you can rocks underwater alongside brings out meaning of “Trust your charts”. I am really enjoying it.
We ½ way through the Trent-Severn Waterway.
Tomorrow is Saturday, it might be interesting finding space at a lock wall.
Saturday July 17th
Clear, cool and windy again.
Terrain is changing, while it is still rocky, there less conifers and more deciduous trees. The lake shores are lined with homes. We traveled through several lakes and ended up at Bobcaygeon. We stayed below the lock as there was no room above it. I was ever hopeful that I would find space above the lock as it would be cooler there, so spent a good deal of time lock watching. Had a good show watching rental houseboats trying to maneuver in the wind. The operators tend to be inexperienced and the boats are underpowered, they really get banged up quite a bit. We got lucky as the weather cooled down a lot and we stayed below the lock.
Sunday, July 18th
More lakes – cool weather (long pants). Stopped to shop in Fenlon Falls, then headed out to lock 35 – Rosedale.
A very isolated area. We had cocktails with 3 other boaters. It ended when the rain started about suppertime.
I have one more of my electrical glitches worked out. The generator needs to run off the house battery, which gets charged while the generator is running. Otherwise it drains the engine batteries which are not charged by the generator. Still more stuff to work through.
Monday, July 19th
Hard to believe we have been gone 7 weeks. In some ways it feels like we just left and other times it is like we have already been gone a year. We certainly miss all of our friends at home. In addition we are now missing some of our travel friends who moved ahead while we were package waiting. Of course we are meeting lots of new people, some of whom we will call friends at some point. All have been fun to spend time with, and of course they are always a good excuse to avoid work on the boat.
I have a really good arsenal of excuses, being sociable is just one of them. When we stop at night it is too hot in the engine room. In the morning I do not want to wake Carole up. When we are at a Marina I do not want to turn off the shore power. When Carole is cooking I can not open the floor boards to get in the engine room or get in her way, etc. etc.
Tonight we stopped at Thorah another very isolated lock. I sat for and talked with the operators for quite a while, fished a bit, but mostly just hung out.
Tuesday, July 20th to Thursday, July 22nd
Port Orillia has a 3 nites for the price of 2. How can we pass that up? Used the time to get some shopping in and I get a much needed haircut. Carole was able to sew a No-see-um screen for the salon door and I installed some snaps. Now we can leave the door open at night.
Tuesday one of the 9 loopers that are here organized a “standing room only” cocktail party. There is no drinking at the park so we had to have it on the dock. There are no tables and chairs on the docks – ergo standing room only.
We also spent an evening with Randy and Barb on “Lazy Dolphin”. They had us over for a glass of wine (Their after dinner – ours before) . Randy loaned me a battery charger to see if the engine batteries were any good since my tests showed them marginal. Turns out one is bad the other seems to be O.K. I think that are secondary charge system in the inverter is not working and will need to be replaced.
Friday, July 23rd
Hazy, overcast, drizzling

Carole and Sue relaxing at the lock

Head out of Orillia and hook up with Joe and Sue on “Quixote” (the original name of our boat) on the trip. It cleared a bit and was a pleasant ride through some narrow, windy, channels. We stopped at Swift Rapids lock 43. This place is so remote that the operators get here by boat in the morning. It is also the highest conventional lock in the system at 43 ft. Annie had a ball here – two of the kids on the boat next to us threw the ball for her (their dog – a retriever- had no interest in retrieving). One of the lock operators told me of a stand of wild raspberries, so I picked some for Carole's dessert. Even with the other boats at the lock it was a very quiet evening.
Saturday, July 24th

At the bottom of lock 43

I was glad we stayed above the lock. I learned that at 5:30 am about 40 swimmers accompanied by Kayaks and canoes were dropped off for an 8 mile down river charity swim. We passed them all as we went on down.
At 1030 we stopped at Big Chute Railway for the night. We got to cheer the swimmers in as they arrived.
We toured the Big Chute Railway and I was really impressed by this piece of machinery. In place of a lock they built a rail car to take the boats over a hill and put them back in the water on the other side. The reason we were given was to prevent Lamprey eels from invading the fish population in Lake Simcoe. To call it an oversized travel lift is a major understatement. (For the non-boaters a travel lift is a large wheeled cage that has straps that can be lowered in to the water and then raised to pick up the boat and carry it to a spot on land where it can be blocked up for storage or other work).

Big Chute Railway

When the car comes over the hill it resembles some “Star Wars” creation. The car is set up remotely by the operators on board to accommodate the boats that are waiting to travel over the hill. It can hold up to 9 (16') small boats – 3 across and 3 deep. The larger boats will go 1 or 2 at a time depending on whether they can sit on their bottom without damage. The straps are only used to keep the boats upright. The carriage then goes up the hill across a road and down the other side. It says level all the way. If you are looking for hydraulics or a mechanical leveling system you will not find it. It is kept level by running the wheels on two different tracks. One end travels on an inside track and the other end on the outside tracks. I expect to post pictures and video.



Sunday, July 25th

We are first on the blue line this morning. (The blue line is a section of the lock where you tie up to indicate that you are ready to lock through). Because of the bottom shape of the two boats waiting we had to go one at a time. Our bottom will not allow us to sit directly on the keel without damaging the rudder so we went over the top with about 4' of boat hanging off the end. We then got a rather fun ride over the hill, followed by an exiting ride down river through another narrow gorge with the current running hard behind us.

A wee bit tight

The Lock at Port Severn comes up quickly. We are squeezed in to the lock with three other boats and we are in the Georgian Bay. Several more narrow windy channels later we head for Midland.
Stopped at the town dock to do some sightseeing and then anchored out across the bay.









No More Locks til Chicago!!!!