Down River – Chicago to the Ohio River

Friday, September 17^th

Parked Barges

Once we left the downtown area it is all industrial. Scrap yards, train yards, and a boat yard. I am wondering where they put all of the boats in Winter. There are thousands of boats and we only saw one storage yard with a travel lift. Farther down were chemical and oil depots, coal fired power plants, and sand & stone yards. Saw a lot of barges on the sides, but not very many on the move.

We tied up on the wall in Joliet, IL with power provided. Social Hour with seven other looper boats tonight. Went to the casino for the buffet, but it was not only expensive ($26.00), it was very small. We went to a nearby pub and had a decent sandwich.

Saturday, September 18^th

Off at 7:50 to catch the nearby lock. The loopers that left 7:00 were still waiting and all seven of us locked at one time. We proceeded to lock through the next lock together also.

No room at the dock

When we arrived at Ottowa (only five of us – two continued on) we found two loopers there already and no room at the town dock. There were four 30' finger piers not shown in any of the guides so three of us tied up there. The other two rafted outside the loopers that were already there. Social Hour wasget in the Marina washed out by a rainstorm, although there were a few holdouts that were sitting in the rain with umbrellas.

Sunday, September 19^th

Squeezing out of a lock

Overcast and rainy. Another early start. Six boats arrived at Starved Rock Lock only to find a 15 (3x5)barge tow locking up. We waited 45 minutes and had to move out of the channel to let the tow out of the lock. When we exited the lock we were facing an 11 barge tow that almost blocked the whole exit. After dodging around the barges the parade proceeded onward.

We saw our first flying carp today. They were not as big nor as high flying as I expected. We are also seeing lots of Great Blue Herons, some Common Egrets, and Green Herons. One of the loopers described what are probably Snow Geese. I am not reporting on the Vultures, Canada Geese, or Seagulls all of which are ubiquitous.

Top is video of the flying Carp
Lower is Great Blue Herons along the riverbank.

At 3:00 in the afternoon we marched in to Henry Harbor Marina. Well we did not actually get in the Marina. We were tied up outside on an old lock wall. The marina inside is only 3 ½' deep. The five boats took up the entire lock wall. We came in 1 at a time to get tied up before the next boat came in. Appearance wise this is one step from Deliverance. The people however are really nice, easy going and friendly. An inexpensive bar/restaurant with only the ten of us for customers made for a fine evening.

Monday, September 20^th

Off we went just early enough to get in front of Lazy Dolphin who anchored out last night. They promptly passed us. At 7 ½ mph they are much faster than our 7 mph.

This part of the trip is on the Central Flyway and we are seeing more and more Great Blue Herons and Common Egrets. We also saw several flocks of over 100 White Pelicans.

A few Pelicans on a sandbar

Four of Harry's River Boats

We stopped for fuel at Harry's Marina. I think it may be the graveyard for Casino Riverboats. There were about ten of them. I think that Harry collects them.










We went to the Illinois Valley Yacht Club and we were barely able to get in. We were dragging mud all the way from the river. It was hot and I used the weather to give the deck a major scrubbing. The pool was closed so Happy Hour was at a cabana by the empty pool. Only four looper boats as the other three went on to Peoria.

Tuesday, September 21^st

Another warm day. We started out going 5 miles and then waiting 2 ½ hrs. for a tug and barge to get through the lock in Peoria. The tug and barge combinations that are over 600 feet have to break in to two parts to get through the locks. The first half is pushed in to the lock and is disconnected. The tug and the rest of the tow back out. After locking up or down the tow is pulled out by mechanical mules with tow cables and tied up. The lock then cycles and the tug and the rest of the barges enter and lock through. The the two halves have to be reassembled and leave before any other boats can lock through. Commercial traffic goes first. We anchored while waiting and when I brought my anchor up I got mud on my nice clean deck. Even the washdown pump was bringing up muddy water. I guess not only the Mississippi is muddy.

A view along the Illinois River

Which one is the optimist? Pessimist?
Think about the river flooding

The trees way of dealing with the flood waters

These were not trimmed by man

Another big bird day. In addition to the herons, egrets, and pelicans we saw three Bald Eagles. Two mature and one immature. Otherwise a long somewhat uneventful day looking at the levees. The river is quite pretty outside of the industrial zones.

We pulled in to Tall Timbers Marina, Havana, IL. While sitting at the Social Hour an immature Green Heron hopped by.

Lots of Thunder and Lightning tonight. Fortunately we were at dinner and not in the middle of a Barbeque.

Wednesday, September 22^nd

Left about 8:30 planning to go about 40 miles to an anchorage. It was so pleasant traveling (and we go a lot faster downstream) that we decided to go 60 miles to an anchorage just outside the channel.

We spent the day counting birds and butterflies – shows how busy we were with navigating the Illinois River. I think I forgot to tell you that after the first day on the Chicago River we were on the Illinois. Anyway, in one half hour (about 4 miles) we were able to count 26 Great Blue Herons along the banks of the river. We also saw a lot of Common Egrets, 8 Bald Eagles (4 in one tree) and 54 Monarch butterflies. The latter actually pleased Carole as she has felt that there are fewer every year due to habitat destruction.

Passing a tow

A very pleasant day. Only one lock AND we actually got to overtake and pass a tug with a 15 barge tow! At top speed (about 9 mph) it took us 5 minutes to get by.

It is going to be a warm night. Tomorrow we hope to push on to Grafton, IL at junction of the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, another 60 mile trip.

Thursday, September 23^rd

Nice night at anchor last night. Sat on deck and watched the moon rise. Annie got to run on a sand/shell beach. The sides of the river are really muddy. Long mud flats up to the tree line. When I walked Annie this AM I made the mistake of thinking the mud was dry as it looked all cracked and dry. What a mistake! Annie and I got really muddy. When we got back onboard it took nearly 20 minutes to get the mud off of us, the dinghy and the boat deck.

Wind is blowing 20 – 25 knots from the south, against the current. A nice 2' chop on the river slowing us down. Nowhere near as bad as a 2' chop on Lake Michigan. It is slowing us down, but since we are with the current we are still making 8 mph. With all of this wind we are not seeing many shorebirds.

Grafton Harbor Marina is a first class facility. We have a covered slip – a first for us. The marina put our 4 boat entourage on the same dock. Party Time! The pool and hot tub (yea!) are still open so the party moved there. Grafton is small, but has lots of restaurants. The group chose the Pig Pit BBQ. We are back in reasonable price restaurant territory again. ½ rack of ribs was $10.50, sides were extra, cash only. They did have an ATM if you were short of cash. And beers were only $2.00. Bud, Bud Lite and Miller Lite were the only beers they had.

Friday, September 24^th

Serendipity, Mitch and Annie under cover

Being under cover was great last night. It rained hard, so we were told, and we heard nothing. Taking a day off the river today.

Started the day by going for a haircut. A lady barber that made getting a haircut at the Book and Barber a visual treat. And I got a good haircut too. Carole went shopping and had her haircut – at a different place.

I finished putting snaps on the screen that Carole finished last week. We now have screens all around. I was also able to put on the antivibration mounts on the generator that were sent by Leigh last month. And I removed the manual seawater pump in preparation for adding a soap dispenser. Naturally everything took longer than expected. I finished up and made it to the pool in time for a beer.

Dinner at an upscale restaurant was really good and not very expensive, although we did sit in the basement. Dungeon actually. It was the only place they could seat the ten of us. Pretty nice really.

Saturday, September 25^th

On to the Mighty Mississippi!

The requisite St. Louis Picture

½ mile from the marina we entered the Mississippi River. Making 10 mph now. Lots of Junk in the water. We are told that the river is near flood stage at St. Louis. That is 2 locks away and past where the Missouri joins the Mississippi.

Fern's River Briefing

Making about 12mph now and we arrive at Hoppe's Marina in Kimmswick, MO at 3:30. Fern, the owner, loaned me her van to go to the Walmart with two other people. When we returned she spent an hour giving all of the people docked there a briefing on the river and how to run it. Where the dangers are, where the anchorages are and how to deal with the tows. Carole now has many more things to worry about.

We learned about wing dams – they are dams that are underwater to divert the river in to the channel so that less dredging is needed. However they are also close to the surface – depending on the water level – and pose a danger if you run over them.

Also learned about underwater weir dams, tugs and how to pass them, turbulent current locations, missing buoys, and because of high water, diving or pop up buoys. River sounds like a lot of fun.

Sunday, September 26^th

A rough night for sleeping. Logs and other debris was coming downriver and banging in to the hull and tugs going by were bouncing us around. We woke up to overcast, rainy weather with the river up 2-3'since last night and still lots of debris coming down river. Carole declared today a no go. Everyone else in the entourage agreed. I spent the morning getting my Georgian Bay Blog caught up and Carole did some sewing. I then joined Tom, Dave and Joe watching football. Carole, Linda, Brenda and Sue walked to town to spend more money (I think it is called “shopping”).

Fog is predicted for tomorrow.

Monday, September 27^th

Clear and cool this morning, so off we go. Long day planned. We hope to make 110 miles today. The Mississippi current will give us 50 of those in ten hours, so we are effectively only going 60 miles. It is still a ten hour day.

Most of Fern's talk is proving useful. The turbulent spots were not exceptionally turbulent, but submerged dams, pop-up buoys (we got to calling them Jack-in-the-Box Buoys), and tugboats abound. One bonus for us is having The Old Grouch in the Group. They have and AIS on the boat. This is similar to an EPIRB on airplanes. It receives a signal transmitted by all commercial, and some pleasure boats. The signal gives the Name, location, speed and course of the vessel. The AIS unit puts this information on the chart screen. Dave would relay that information to the boat in the lead so they could contact the tug before we could even see it if it was around a corner. We could then let the tug know there were small boats ahead and ask them where they would like us to pass them. It beats radar since it gives us the tug's name and we could “see” around corners.
The biggest tow so far was a 40 barge tow – 6 wide by 7 long. In case you think I have forgotten how to multiply, there were only 4 barges on the first row.

Nothing Here

Now You See It

Now You Don't

Not as much debris today, although lots of Jack-in-the-Box Buoys, and several buoys were loose and racing downriver.
The banks are all wooded with rolling hills and cliffs, almost no houses or industry.

Cliffs on the Mississippi

The swirling water and the tugboat wakes make for an interesting day. The wakes from their propellers are huge. In the muddy water the wakes look like big muddy hills.

Muddy Hills from a Tugboat Wake

Another Tugboat Wake

Except for the tugboats I had pictured a much different Mississippi. It is not as wide as I thought and not as flat. It is prettier than I thought it would be.

Sunset in Little Diversion Creek

We pulled in off the river in to Little Diversion Channel. A very pretty quiet anchorage – out of the current and no wind. Getting in to the anchorage was very interesting. We had to turn up in to the current and go to almost full throttle to enter from downriver, then at the last second, as we left the river, I had to turn in and throttle back in order to enter safely. Of course there was a downed tree across ½ the entrance with a floating log blocking part of the other side.

There was a beautiful sunset and an easy row to shore for Annie's romp.

Taking Annie to shore at Little Diversion

Tuesday, September 28^th

Cold and clear with a bit of sea smoke on the water. Annie got in her romp and Q's End decided to make a run for the Ohio River and maybe all the way to the Cumberland. Being much slower the three of us left, Quixote, The Old Grouch, and us decided we would go to an anchorage about 8 miles short of the Ohio. Just as we were ready to leave (Q's End was already underway) Old Grouch reported 1 tug going downriver and 4 tugs waiting for it pass so they could go upriver. These huge tows do not like to pass each other around curves, so they wait. We were too slow getting going. Had we gotten in front of the downriver tow we would not catch the prop wash from the upriver tugs since they were only holding station at the side of the river. Instead we waited an hour and a half for all the traffic to clear before we could leave the Little Diversion Channel. When we finally got out we had to race ahead of another down bound tow to get clear water.

We finally got some good news from Q's End. The Ohio River is only running about 1 mph. We made good time and decided to pass the original anchorage and head up the Ohio for 15 miles to an anchorage. We may be able to make Paducah, KY tomorrow.

Carole is taking the boat on in to the Ohio. From the Big Muddy to a Blue-green river. The water at the junction looked like a Lava Lamp with swirls of brown in the blue-green. We were going 13 miles an hour (14 mph at one point) down the Mississippi when we started the turn up the Ohio we were going 4 mph and now we are doing 6.3. I am pleased since I had visions of going 3 mph up the Ohio and thought at that speed we could have a fuel problem. The next available fuel is 100 miles away.

15 miles up the Ohio we found a nice place to anchor. Close to shore and well out of the channel. The banks here are sand so Annie did not have to take a mud bath like she did on the Mississippi. I saw lots of bird tracks in the sand and also what looked like muskrat tracks. The banks are actually Levees. When I climb to the top I find farms on the other side. Climbing up is not easy, there is a lot of brush in the way, dead trees, and piles of broken branches left by the river when it floods. Annie loved it. She would jump in the river then roll in the sand. Every time I tried to wash off the sand by throwing a stick in the river, she would roll in the sand before bringing the stick back. We had sand all over the the back deck until I broke out the hose and washed her off.

Had Old Grouch and Quixote over for Social Hour and we watched a beautiful sunset with friends.

We are headed up the Ohio to the Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers.

Chicago, chicago ....

Finally Lake's End

The BIG city

Sunday, September 12^th

An early morning start for the short run to Burnham Harbor, Chicago. We arrived at 10:30 and the tailgate parties were well underway. It was opening day for the Bear's football season. The parking lot for the marina was full of tailgaiter parties. The marina is really large, about ¾ mile from end to end and the parking lot is also that big. The stadium is only about 200 yards from the marina, so the lot is used for tailgating for home games.

After walking Annie and putting everything away we decided to go to the Shield Aquarium. We walked to the stadium to see if we could get Carole a Hot Dog. There was a large circle of display booths promoting Radio Stations, Cell phone services, etc. and one was promoting a cheese spread and giving away cheeseburgers – nice. Two booths away they were promoting and giving away sausage. So stuffed with burgers and sausage we walked to the aquarium where we paid for our free lunch with a very expensive bottle of water.

The Aquarium is marvelous. Lots to see - big shows with Dolphins, Mink Whales, Sea Lion, and Penguins, and mini presentations. While the penguins were being fed there was a keeper outside explaining the process. When a diver was feeding the fish in the Caribbean reef she was describing what she was doing from inside the tank. Another keeper was outside relaying questions from the visitors to the diver.

There is an exhibit featuring the Amazon. Through a series of tanks the Amazon is shown from spring flood through the dry time. Each tank has both land and water features showing the different fish, turtles and other creatures and how they change with the conditions. There is even an indigenous Indian hut with a platform underneath floating on the water for the cow to live on during the flooded days. We spent almost 5 hours at the aquarium.

Mink Whales playng with pool noodles

By the time we left the football game was over and the parking lot was almost empty. The tailgaters cleaned up after themselves really well. Annie hardly found any scraps to eat.

Dinner aboard and an early night.

Monday, September 13^th

Clear and cool. The parking lot looks like nothing happened here yesterday. Everything had been cleaned up.

We moved to DuSable Harbor, a short ½ hr. trip. It put us closer to town.

Navy Pier

We went off with Tom and Linda from Q's End on a walk to Navy Pier. We wandered in to the permanent Stained Glass Museum there. Some really nice pieces from the 1600's through current designs.

Mitch staring at The Bean

The Bean up close

After Lunch we split up and wandered around the downtown waterfront area. We found “The Bean” (Actually titled “Silver Cloud”) a sculpture in Millennium Park. You will need to look at pictures to understand why it is so fascinating, and actually see it to really understand the fascination. 

 Went to dinner with the group at Giordano's Pizza. Just O.K.

Tuesday, September 14^th

Off to the Museum of Contemporary Art with Dave and Brenda from The Old Grouch. The Alexander Calder Exhibit was great! The pieces were some of his smaller works, including some of his “found object” pieces. Looking at his smaller Mobiles was fascinating. Unlike the large ones (which I like) these were of a scale that I could relate to. I was fascinated by the variations and delicacy of the work.

the far room was the Calder exhibit - no pictures allowed

From there we grabbed a quick lunch at a Hot Dog place and then took the EL to the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Office Museum. Another worthwhile trip. The tour gave me insight in to his life and design ethic.

Dinner at the Columbia Yacht Club Bar. Poor food, High prices and a Great Location. The club house is a retired, very large enclosed ferryboat. It was designed for ice breaking and the car deck could carry a railroad car while the passenger deck was all mahogany and brass.

No docks but a great Clubhouse

Wednesday, September 15^th

Bev – a friend thru Salvatore – came to the boat and off we went to Sal's Old neighborhood. Bev took us on a tour of the area, the schools, and we went to Lunch at the Lincoln Tavern. Had some really good sandwiches and beer. On the way back we did some shopping including a major wine buy – We are heading for some dry counties!

In the evening, Tom (from Q's End) and I took a Segway tour. What fun! They are incredible machines. I want a pair of them for the boat. Kind of heavy though and at $6000 each a bit pricey. Sure would make shopping easier.

The Segway tour group 

Great Fun

Bev joined Carole & the rest of the group for a Chinese dinner.

Thursday, September 16^th

We had planned to leave today, but the weather and Tom convinced me to stay in Chicago another Day. I got some work done and Carole got some shopping in. Those that left reported heavy rain, so we are glad we waited. Carole wanted to take pictures as we go through downtown Chicago.

Friday, September 17^th

We tore ourselves away from Chicago on a cool Sunny day. After clearing the Chicago Lock we headed down the Chicago River through lots of bridges and we had high rises all around us. We took a side trip up the North Branch of the Chicago River. The buildings here are newer and there are a number of very large condos, some with the lower floors as parking garages. Also many people seem to commute on Water Taxis.

Some low bridges

Heading up the Chicago River

another view upriver

Some Condos

and more condos

Car park Condos above

Nice building

Off to the Illinois River

Leaving the Chicago River we entered the Illinois river.

Onward to Peoria.

Lake Michigan

Perhaps it should be called Lake Michigos! (sorry as I remember it, that is Yiddish,  for “Crazy” or maybe it should be Mishouganah - whatever)

People may complain about the Delaware Bay, but it is only one day. Lake Michigan was 22 days, of which we only traveled 9 and 6 of those were out of frustration. Only three of the 9 days had seas under 2 ft. Every other day we traveled we saw some 3 ft. and occasionally 4 and 5 ft. The towns were nice and we wanted to visit more than we did, but with the lake being so rough we traveled whenever we could. So we spent more time than we wanted in some places and did not get to see others.

Mackinac Straights Bridge

Friday, August 20^th

Headed out early the morning through the Straights of Mackinac. We were headed for Petosky. The weather is not ideal but should be O.K. The wind and seas were behind going through the straights, but as we turned south through Grays Reef we felt as if we were in a washing machine. 4-6 ft. waves coming from every direction. Our speed dropped to 4 ½ mph on occasion. I decided to burn some fuel and punched to get through. About 2 hrs. later we headed close to shore to get out of the waves ( the wind was coming from the shore so the waves were smaller there). Near shore the waves dropped to two feet and it was a better ride in to Petosky.

The towns are getting larger as we move south. Petosky feels like a suburban town. There is a waterfront festival this weekend. The Rotary had a pretty nice midway and kids games. We were smelling Diesel in the cabin when we arrived, so I spent the rest of the day trying to find a leak. It only smelled with the engine running and I found diesel in the oil pan. Not finding any real leak I tightened the injector fittings.

Saturday, August 21^st

A short 2 ½ hr. trip to Charlevoix today, since the lake was not going to be calm and Charlevoix only a little way out from the bay near Petosky. The diesel leak seems to be gone..

Charlevoix is another nice port. The Michigan Marinas have been first class so far. There was a sidewalk sale going on and the town was quite crowded. It also felt like a an east coast suburban town. The Marina is situated in a park with a “ground level” fountain. That is no pool at the base just an extension of the sidewalk with drains in it. The kids (of all ages) can play in it. It had various water jets coming out of the ground and playing up and down, sometimes on sometimes off. I watched on little boy go up to a jet that was not shooting water at the time and put his foot over it. When nothing happened he looked down and the five smaller jets around the big one shot him straight in the face. Hardly fazed him.

One of the "Mushroom Houses" at Charlevoix

Sunday, August 22^nd

We missed the 8 o'clock bridge opening by a minute and since the next one was in ½ hr. we cruised out through a narrow cut in to Lake Charlevoix. Carole decided to have breakfast and came up saying she smelled diesel. I went to check and found diesel spraying out of a crack in one of the injector lines. We were lucky we missed the bridge. We went directly back to the dock. A quick conference with Leigh my diesel guru and some online research found a nearby auto parts store open on Sunday, where I hoped to find a brake line repair kit. I walked about a mile to the store and bought $2.00 worth of parts. We tried to find the leak and repair it in the store, but even with air pressure we could not locate it. They loaned me the flaring tool to take with me and another customer gave me a ride back to the boat. I had to reinstall the line and run the engine to pinpoint the leak. I then cut the line at the leak and found that it was an extra heavy steel line that the tool was not going to be able to deal with. Back to the store. One look at the line and the parts guy knew that he did not have the tools to do the repair. Fortunately two other customers there knew a little about the injector lines and convinced me that I could use a simple compression connector and it would work just fine. I am not a fan of compression connectors as I have seen too many of them leak under sinks with just household water pressure. Diesel injectors are much higher pressure, but I was in a bind so I thought I would give it a try. I took it back to the boat and reassembled the injector line with the compression connector. I checked it out at the dock, and when it looked like it was holding, we took the boat out on to Charlevoix Lake and ran it. I ran it both hard and easy several times to check it out and everything held fine. So tomorrow we can go. Since I did not trust the connector long term I went on line ordered a new injector line for delivery to Traverse City.

Monday, August 23^rd

We made the 7:30 bridge opening today and plan to go to Traverse City instead of stopping in Northport which puts us back on our planned schedule. It is really calm out here today so I can actually get some work done underway. I checked online on the part I ordered yesterday and boy I am glad I did. They were not going to ship until Tomorrow and 2^nd day air would mean that we would have to stay an extra day in Traverse City. I called to see if it could be shipped next day air. Turns out that the part was not even in stock (even though the website said 'in stock”) and I was told that they did not know when it would be shipped since they were not even Volvo Diesel dealers! I canceled the order and one website and two phone calls later I found one in stock that would be shipped today- with expected arrival Wednesday.

We are meeting up with Windsong again, seems that Two Turtles and Magoo are about 150 miles ahead of us. Unless they stop for a while we may not meet up with them until we get to the Tennessee River.

We made good time and arrived at Traverse City about 3:00pm. Traverse City is about a 50 mile side trip for us. One of the former Meerwald Captains, Matt lives near here and we want to visit with him. He met us at the dock with our mail and several packages and offered to loan us a car for tomorrow – a real bonus!

Cheyenne a former mate on the Meerwald and now Captain on Manitou (Traverse City's Tall Ship) stopped by to say hello. She was flying to the Tall Ship festival in Chicago in an hour, but we did get to sit and talk for a bit.

Tuesday, August 24^th

Matt actually loaned us Wendy's car for the day. Wendy is the Office Manager at Traverse City Tall Ship and that was where our mail was sent. They actually live about 30 miles away on a small piece of land near a state wildlife area, and besides the wildlife they are in a small cooperative chicken venture- so we got a dozen eggs with the car.

We did lots of shopping for parts and food today.

We had dinner with Matt and Wendy and really enjoyed being with them. They offered the car for another day.

Wednesday, August 25^th

The main reason for loaning us the car for another day was so that Carole could get a haircut. I got started cleaning and waxing the plastic flybridge windows. Matt had suggested we visit the Music House Museum in Acme, so I got out of cleaning the boat for another day! Tomorrow is not supposed to be a good travel day so I may be cleaning tomorrow.

The Music House Museum is a collection of Automatic Music Machines – Nickelodeons, player pianos, etc. They have a player piano that reproduces the artists' key pressure as well as timing and strokes. We heard “Rhapsody in Blue” played by George Gershwin. It sounded wonderful, not like any player piano I ever heard. It was a grand Piano and at the end the tour group was applauding. They also have the automatic orchestra/organ that was at the entrance to the Wildwood Amusement Pier for many years. It uses a book instead of a roll to play the music. There is also a mechanical violin player and a 40' wide x 18' high mechanical dance orchestra. All of these and more work and were played for us during the tour. While we were listening to the instruments we found ourselves grinning. This was a real highlight for both Carole and me.

The violin player with piano player behind to accompany it.

This reproduces a full dance orchestra

After getting the car back to Wendy I also picked up the new injector line and installed it. While down in the engine room I found a small leak in the Air conditioner inlet which I fixed and then decided some ballast that was midship could be me moved to port and help get rid of our list to starboard.

Weather report has changed. We may be able to get to Northport (25 miles) or even Leland (about 50 miles) if the forecast holds.

I get to avoid cleaning the boat again!

Thursday, August 26^th

Clear, cool and relatively calm. Underway at 7:30. With an 8-9 hour run an early start is helpful. It is a little bumpy, but as we leave Traverse Bay and turn south it has gotten a lot easier.

We met up with 5 other Loopers in Leland, Michigan and 4 of us went to Bluebird Tavern for fried smelts.

Wing Report – not advertised as Buffalo Wings, but they were close: Flavor – 4, Meaty – 3, Crispy – 3, Heat -3, Total 13 not too shabby!

The smelts and onion rings were great.

Weather report for tomorrow is poor for us. Winds 15-20 and seas 3-5 feet coming straight at us. This may continue for 4 days. Lake Michigan must not love us.

Friday, August 27^th

Took a walk through town. It is a very pleasant place. Well kept houses and several nice art galleries. There is a restored section called Fishtown right near the marina. It is mostly tourist shops, well done just nothing special. There is at least one commercial fishing boat and fish smoking house. The best smoked lake trout so far.

I spent the rest of the day cleaning, polishing and watching the waves break over the high stone breakwater. Latest report says at least one more day here and then maybe a break. We have one more 8- 10 hour day and then we 2, 4, and 6 hour options most of the rest of the way to Chicago.

Saturday, August 28^th

Another day of watching the waves break over the seawall. Took a walk to the lake in the afternoon and watched a wedding party leave the restaurant in four pontoon boats to the cheers of the crowd on the bridge nearby. Annie got a short swim/run in the lake – I could not throw a stick far enough for her to find water deep enough to swim in.

Leland Fishing Village

Sunday, August 29^th

We got a small break in the seas so we are leaving. Waves are only 2-3 feet high on the nose. I know that does not seem like much, but the constant pounding and pitching of the boat can wear you down. After 6 hours we pulled in to Frankford, MI. Called Matt, Wendy was able to get off a bit early so after we had a Looper's Social Hour on board, Matt and Wendy took us to dinner at the”Cabbage Shed” in Elberta. Matt was driving his 1951 Morris Mini. Good wings: Crispy – 3, Taste -4, heat -3, Meaty -3, total 13.

Some of the Dunes along the Lake

Monday, August 30^th
Another bumpy ride to get to Manatee. The marina and town got a “thumbs down” from the Old Grouch, but after a tiring ride we thought we would go in to a lake behind town and anchor. Q's End called out to us from a slip. I tried to get them on the radio, but there was no answer. We proceeded through to the lake and were looking for a spot to anchor when they called us on the radio. Since the marina was redoing its shower and bathroom facilities they were giving a 40% discount. For $22 a night we took a slip. I am not sure what The Old Grouch did not like. It was not a terrible place. The town had some interesting art galleries and the market was pretty convenient.

Tuesday, August 31^st

No happiness on Lake Michigan today, so I got to clean some more. I also spent some time trying to splice lines on the new fenders we got in Traverse City. Splicing double braid without the proper size fid is almost impossible. I gave up. Meanwhile Carole used the time to make and insect screen for the starboard door. It is a quite complicated shape and will take at least one more day.

Wednesday, September 1^st

Three months gone by and all is going pretty well. The boat inside is still a work in progress (as far as stowing stuff) but I am happy with it.

The call was for 2-3 ft. waves today. As we left Manatee we were slammed with a 6 footer and my nice clean deck took a full cup of coffee. Annie then decided to lay down at my feet (she was upset by the wave) and proceeded to spread the coffee and her hair around the flybridge floor. The seas stayed at the 3-4 level; with some 5's thrown in. Our speed at cruising rpm is normally 7 mph. The seas kept us at 5 – 5 ½ mph. After we turned around a point of land and changing course to head for a harbor we were taking the waves broadside and rolling 15º side to side. Fortunately it eased off a bit and the last two hours were only a bit uncomfortable. We stopped in Pentwater – took a walk through town and had dinner with Tom & Linda from Q's End. Wing report, Village Cafe: Crispy -1, Taste -3, Meaty -4, Heat -2, Total -10. I am glad the salad was really good.

Thursday, September 2^nd

After 17 days we have gotten a forecast that looks like an easy day. And so far they are right! Lake is almost flat.

Early morning on the Lake

At 9:30 the waves have picked up to 1', still easy going. By 10:30 the waves were at 2' and by 11:30 we are seeing 3' and still building. When we enter White Lake we are really rocking and rolling – so much for the forecast! The five boats split up. Three went to the municipal marina and two of us to Crosswinds Marina. The marinas are close together so it is easy to walk to the other boats. We expect to stay for a few days so the plan is to go to Lazy Dolphin tomorrow night for Pizza.

Sunset at White Lake

Friday September 3^rd

Still waiting for the weather. Boat work and goofing off today. I was loaned the proper size fid by the marina manager and was able to eye splice the double braid line on the new fenders. Carole was making a screen for the starboard door.

Had lunch at the marina restaurant and it was pretty good. Dinner was slow cooked pork with Trader Joe's Indian Curry Sauce. Pizza party is tomorrow.

Saturday, September 4^th

Another weather day. Borrowed the Marina manager's Truck to go to the farmers market & supermarket. A really first class farm market. Some of the best looking fruits and vegetables yet. It is also the right time of year. Corn and tomatoes have been really good. We do miss the crabs though.

Pizza Party on Lazy Dolphin with Q's End, Windsong, and The Old Grouch. Consensus is tomorrow we go.

Sunday, September 5^th

Heading out at 11:00 am – only 10 miles to Muskegan or 23 miles to Grand haven if the lake is quiet enough. It is pretty cool out and the wind is in our face to start. Seas are in the 2-3 foot range. The top end of our comfort level. After an hour we turn south. The wind is now on our beam (side) making the ride pretty rolly. The boat is rocking through 20º. Wind and waves are down a bit though and we decide to go on to Grand haven. The town dock is very nice. It is located in a large waterfront park. Lots of people in the park. It is however rocking and rolling. The boats are bouncing a lot. The waves have a fairly straight run in from the lake and up the river.

Spaghetti Dinner on Windsong with the group. We then get to watch a light and sound show with a huge animated fountain across the river. Really well done and we had front row seats. It is a nightly show from Memorial Day to Labor Day. There were viewing stands in the park and they were full. The fountain and lights played to music that varied from pop to classical.

We spent the night with the boat bouncing off the dock.

Monday, September 6^th (Labor Day)

Wind is down a bit, but the lake still has 6' waves. Gale warnings on the lake for the next 2 days. We expect we will be here til Thursday. Rain has kept things quiet. Not many people in the park or on the docks. I did a (very) little cleaning in the v-berth and Carole was working on the Screen for the starboard door. We moved the boat to the other side of the dock so we would be blown away from the dock instead of against it. In the process of cleaning the grill I managed to drop the drip pan overboard. Fishing with a net did not work so I tried diving for it. The bottom here is thick with soft mud and visibility was zero. After about 10 dives I was cold and had to quit. All I fund was a pair of sunglasses. I think I will buy a new drip pan.

Watched the light show again. Different than last night. It was shorter and still very well done.

The wind started to pick up at 3:00 AM and while the boat rocked a lot we did not hit the dock.

Tuesday, September 7^th

Wind is still picking up. The only boats left here are us loopers. Everyone was out at 7:30 this morning adjusting dock lines and preparing for the heavier winds. The good news is that it is warmer and not raining.

Very rough day in the marina. The dock lines are chafing through and there is not enough chafing gear to cover all of the spots that need it. We had one line break from chafe and another that is trash. The backup lines that are already in place look good and are not chafing.

We went for a walk to the inlet and watched 6-8' waves coming almost straight in creating the surge we are getting at the dock. Surfers were walking out on the breakwalls, jumping in, and surfing to the beach. We watched several waves break over the 30' high lighthouse.

It was a difficult night with the surge stretching lines and straining the docks and cleats.

I missed the big one

They keep on rolling in

And in!

 

 

 

These are the little ones

Wednesday, September 8^th

Wind is a bit lighter today, and everyone is taking it easy. Walked to the farm market, spliced up some new dock lines and Carole continued to work on the screen for the door. Tonight looks pretty good and tomorrow is a go.

the calm after the storm

Thursday, September 9^th

Out on the lake with a following wind and only 2' waves. First day in 3 weeks without the 3 footers. We are making great time and hope it holds all day.

We made good time to South Haven, and traveled in comfort. While walking through town a parade of old tractors came through. There must have been 50 of them. There is an old engine and tractor show at the fairgrounds about five miles away. I would like to go there, but priority now is to get the heck off the lake.

Friday, September 10^th

Off to Michigan City this morning. It is Cold and a bit bumpy, but generally O.K. A rather uneventful trip. We did cross a state line and are now in Indiana. Got in too late to go to town. A had dinner at the yacht club. The special was wings – poor choice – Hot -2, Meaty -4, Taste -1, Crispy -1, total -8.

Saturday, September 11^th

On to Hammond Indiana. Hope to meet up with Victor there. He is Salvatore's (my brother-in-law) brother there. Haven't seen him in 15 years.

Seas started out calm and built to 2', but it was a short trip, about 4 ½ hrs. and we were in Hammond.

A nice marina with really nice friendly people on the dock. However it was about a ½ mile walk to the office and facilities. There is nothing nearby except the Casino and a beach. Everything else is across the road and about 12 railroad tracks.

We had a nice 2 hr. visit with Vic and he also drove me to the market (beer run) and back. One of the seasonal people had offered me a ride, but Vic was already on his way. He drew up a map for us which helped a lot.

We went to the Casino Buffet for dinner. Fantastic Buffet. The largest I have ever seen, everything from Crayfish to Southern Fried Chicken and everything in between., very reasonable and also quite good.

No I did not augment the casino's bottom line while there.

Tomorrow off to Chicago!